Introduction
Oaxaca is widely considered Mexico's culinary capital, and with good reason. The state's 16 indigenous groups, diverse microclimates, and centuries of culinary tradition have produced a cuisine of extraordinary depth and complexity. From the seven moles to artisanal mezcal, from toasted chapulines to hand-ground chocolate, Oaxacan food is a revelation.
The Seven Moles of Oaxaca
Oaxaca is called the "Land of Seven Moles," each a distinct sauce:
- Negro -- The most complex, with over 30 ingredients including charred chilies, chocolate, and multiple spices
- Rojo -- Red mole, rich and slightly sweet
- Coloradito -- Ancho chili-based, deep red, slightly sweet
- Amarillo -- Yellow mole, lighter and herbal
- Verde -- Green mole made with herbs, tomatillo, and hoja santa
- Chichilo -- Dark, smoky, and intense
- Manchamanteles -- "Tablecloth stainer," fruity with pineapple and plantain
Must-Try Dishes
Tlayudas
Large, crispy tortillas (about 30 cm) spread with asiento (unrefined pork lard), topped with refried black beans, Oaxaca cheese, meat, lettuce, and salsa. Often folded in half and grilled.
Chapulines
Toasted grasshoppers seasoned with garlic, lime, and chili. Crunchy, savory, and high in protein. Available at markets -- try them in a taco with guacamole.
Tamales Oaxaquenos
Unlike most Mexican tamales, Oaxacan tamales are wrapped in banana leaves (not corn husks), giving them a distinctive flavor. Filled with mole negro and chicken, or mole amarillo.
Tasajo and Cecina
Dried beef (tasajo) and cured pork (cecina) grilled over coals at the Pasillo de Humo in the 20 de Noviembre market.
Tejate
A pre-Hispanic drink made from cacao, corn, mamey seed, and cacao flower -- served cold from large clay bowls in the markets. Unlike anything else you have tasted.
Mezcal
Oaxaca produces the majority of Mexico's mezcal. Essential drinking spots:
- In Situ -- One of the most respected mezcalerias, with knowledgeable staff
- Mezcaloteca -- Tasting sessions with detailed explanations of each mezcal
- Los Amantes -- A well-known mezcal brand with a tasting room
- Take a mezcal tour to visit rural palenques
Where to Eat
Markets
- Mercado 20 de Noviembre -- The essential food market. Head straight to the Pasillo de Humo.
- Mercado Benito Juarez -- For mole pastes, chocolate, and prepared food
- Central de Abastos -- The massive wholesale market, overwhelming but authentic
Restaurants
Oaxaca has an excellent and growing restaurant scene, from traditional fondas to contemporary fine dining. Ask locals for current recommendations -- the scene evolves constantly.
Street Food
- Memelas and tlayudas from evening street vendors
- Empanadas de amarillo at the markets
- Nieve (ice cream) in flavors like leche quemada, mezcal, and tuna (prickly pear)
Cooking Classes and Tours
- Cooking classes with market visits
- Market tours with local guides
- Chocolate workshops -- grind cacao on a metate
